In 1995, The National Society for the Preservation of Indigenous Cultures sent myself, an anthropologist, on an expedition to study Finland and the Finnish way of life, a northern culture virtually untouched by outside civilization.

Upon my arrival, a party of tribal elders was there to welcome me.

Finland, a beautiful land of pristine forest and endless lakes and islands, is one of the last unspoilt stretches of wilderness in the world. An entry in Ledbelly's journal records thus:

It has been six months since I first made contact with the Karelian Trible. My first few months of relaxing in the smoke sauna and bathing in the cold waters of lake Samaa, hiking through the forests and eating wild mushrooms have given way to a harsh turn of events. The recent raids by the Hämäläiset Tribe from the west have taken their toll on us. Not a week after they attacked our village we were ambushed yet again, this time by the Savolaiset and Laplander Tribes from the north.

Fortunately, the peace agreement of 1952, negiotiated by Diplomat Aku Ankkinen, ended the centuries of tribal warfare. However, survival in Finland is still difficult and the winters are long, cold, and dark. During my stay I spent much time fighting the elements to stay alive: Ravenous giant rabid reindeer and man-eating moose with a voracious appetite for human flesh roam the villages after dark. Packs of polar bears stalk the streets of Helsinki mauling unsuspecting Finns. More than once I have seen a gaggle of a hundred or more penguins swoop down from the sky like hungry vultures to tear an unsuspecting Finn limb from limb.

All these hardships help Finns develop mystical and undefinable quality Finns call "Sisu". A rough definition of Sisu is the determination and unyielding stubborness to endure any hardship - to keep struggling on in spite of insurmountable odds. As Herman Melville stated:

"It is a circumstance not generally known, perhaps, that among seamen, Finns are regarded with peculiar superstition. For some reason or other which I could not get at, they are supposed to possess the gift -- of second sight, and the power to wreak supernatural vengeance upon those who offend them. On this account they have great influence among sailors."

However, the here is so very much more to Finland and the Karelian Tribe that one can miss out on should he not look deeper.

A friend made in Finland is a friend for life.

One of my most memorable experiences was when I had the honor of being invited to join in the age-old tradition of gathering around the old story-telling Griot and hearing the tale of the "Kauniit ja Rohkeat". This is such an important event that entire villages shut down for this hour-long ritual.

During my stay my subsistence was Seal meat, raw fish, ice-bear venison and Koskenkorva, a sort of Finnish breakfast drink. Here is a photo of me gathering my morning breakfast.

Finland is the birthplace of The Sauna, preferably built outdoors and next to a lake. The Sauna is a holy place to a Finn, a temple where he goes to commune with the Kalevelan Pagan Gods and to become one with nature. After a long hard week battling the elements, The Finn retires to The Sauna. A typical visit to The Sauna invariably begins with drinking several shots from the year's batch of KuultaaMehu, a centuries-old alcoholic concoction of potatoes, onions, wild mushrooms and berries, bark from a birch tree, and moose perspiration--slowly brewed together over several weeks. It is always drunk out of a wooden cup. Once inside The Sauna, The Finn pours water over the hot stones to create steam and then douses himself with the freezing water to prevent burning - all the while vigorously beating himself with branches from a birch tree to stimulate circulation.

After The Sauna, The Finn retires to the lake, where in the winter a hole is dug through the ice and the Finns bathe themselves in the freezing water. Seven or eight cups of coffee are drunk while The Finn reflects on life, God, and The Finns' oneness with nature.

All this is done to maintain proper health and - most importantly - sound mind.

During my study, I went to The Sauna religiously. I have even drawn a self-portrait of myself in the sauna.

The Finnish language is one of the most unique and complex in the world. Not related to its neighboring Scandinavian languages, it sounds similar to Swahili and Japanese although not related to them. It is, in fact, a member of the Finngric-Ugro family - its closest relatives being the Tartunian Tribe of Estee and the Hungariac Tribe of Siberia. An entry into Ledbelly's journal:

It has been a year now since my arrival and I still have difficulty making myself undersood in this most difficult Karelian language. There are fifteen different cases of nouns and twenty seven different words for snow. I find, however, that the following are sufficient for almost all situations: "Moi", "Moi Moi" and "Hei Toveri! Kupissani ei ole votkaa"

The Finns have endured a long arduous struggle to gain and maintain their independence and cultural identity. The have withstood Russian tyranny, Swedish Imperialism, Viking invasions and Civil Strife. The Winter War with Russia during WWII was particularly bloody. However, the Finnish courage, perseverance and SISU helped them fight off a far larger and more technically advanced opponent.

The president of Finland, Martti Ahtisaari, is something of a hero in Finland, courageously leading the Finns to independance despite overwhelming odds. He is pictured with his lovely wife, Eeva.

You can email Presidentti Ahtisaari by clicking on him. I mailed him several weeks ago but have yet to receive a response. Perhaps you will have better luck.

I shall never forget my final day, the winter sun peering just over the horizon as the snow glistened in its reflection. The distant baying of a moose resonated through the chill morning air. Leaving this enchanting land and the friends I made was gut-wrenching - as I left a part of my heart and a part of myself there. Despite the heartache of knowing I shall never see the The Karelian Tribe again, I find solace in their memory that will always live inside of me and be a part of me.